New Orleans

New Orleans, a city in great despair? Yes, Katrina set upon New Orleans total devastation. Over 1500 deaths, thousands left homeless, thousands more forced to relocate. But during my recent visit to NOLA I witnessed rebuilding, smiling faces and a city whose attitude was not defeat. I spent my stay in the French Quarter and therefore I was mostly in the company of tourists, but the point is….there were people there. Bars were open, bands were playing and while I had never had the opportunity to visit NOLA before something told me “This is just how NOLA should be”.

The restaurants were busy tending to rumbling stomachs, the hotels still had bodies hanging over the railings in hopes to give away strands of beads. There were sax players giving their soul to anyone who would stop to listen. The beignets and hot chocolate at Café Du Monde even had New Orleans flavor. The oysters at Acme Oyster house were excellent! (They even let you take home your shells without sneering at you when you ask!)

Zydeco music was pouring out the French Quarter bars, my first introduction to the genre. Krazy Corner was where it was at! Bands with washboards draped over their shoulders made playing the spoons look so simple. I managed to get an autographed CD from these guys! (Not to mention an aggressive hair pull from the “obviously bi” washboard player in dreadlocks!).

Le Booze was a great bar to start out with! Just a small bar with bar stools but they served up one hell of a Bloody Mary (don’t ever ask for a Caesar in Nola, it gets quite confusing) and a view of the street for people watching that couldn’t have been better. When the rain is pouring (and believe it or not it’s so perfect to have rain while strolling the French Quarter) GumbOlaya was a nice retreat for a mimosa and a hot bowl of gumbo to warm up with.

Then I discovered Pat O’Brien’s. I will leave the link for you at the bottom of this post. If you visit New Orleans, you MUST visit Pat O’Brien’s! Dueling pianos with copper tops and riveted leather casings. Request a song written on a napkin and they will play it for you. Not only did they play ‘Oh Canada’ for me but most of the bar sang along too! (Which was only fair as I sang along with ‘God Bless America’ so many times I could barely speak!) There is no dance floor but if you choose to work the bar with attempts at dancing, there’s plenty of room! A great atmosphere especially with Alvin playing his thimbles. Another link below to read of the legacy of Pat O’Brien’s original thimble player (and 67 year employee) Eddie Gabriel. What an amazing story!

I spent so much time letting loose at Pat Obrien’s that I did not make it to many of the Bourbon Street hot spots save one. Coyote Ugly…. I love the movie, I love the reality show and now I can officially say I have “been there, done that”. Yes, the girls in their cowboy boots dancing on the bar top. Hundreds of bras strung from the ceiling. There is no other drink to be had here but a beer, a man’s drink. Unfortunately the bar was empty so it was a little disappointing, but this will not stop me from checking it out again on my next visit!

Southern Architecture, Creole and Seafood, Zydeco and Jazz, beads and more beads. It was all still there just as it was prior to Katrina. Homes are being rebuilt, lives are being put back together. The atmosphere which is the heart and soul of New Orleans was vibrant, promising and very present….. something I don’t think any amount of water could wash away!


http://www.patobriens.com/courtyardrestaurant.html

http://www.patobriens.com/mreddiegabriel.html